The definitive guide to shirt collars:

Style tips for every occasion

The shirt collar is one of the most important features of a dress men's shirt. It defines the overall look, enhances your facial features and communicates attention to detail and personal style through a single design element. Whether you're aiming for a formal or casual outfit, understanding the different shirt collar types will help you make the right choice every time.

Men's shirt collars differ in the spread between the front points, the height of the collar stand and the shape of the collar points, which may be pointed, rounded or cut away. Some shirt collars feature buttons that fasten the collar points, while others include collar stays or internal inserts that create a sharper, more formal appearance.

Different shirt collar types: what are the differences?

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Button-down collar

Button-down collar


A symbol of classic American style, the button-down collar features long, soft collar points fastened to the shirt with buttons. It is one of the most versatile shirt collar types: relaxed without ever looking untidy, it pairs effortlessly with sports jackets, jeans, chinos and even a tie with a simple knot.

A button-down collar shirt worn with a tie is an excellent choice for business casual environments or smart-casual occasions.

This collar complements almost every face shape.



A symbol of classic American style, the button-down collar features long, soft collar points fastened to the shirt with buttons. It is one of the most versatile shirt collar types: relaxed without ever looking untidy, it pairs effortlessly with sports jackets, jeans, chinos and even a tie with a simple knot.

A button-down collar shirt worn with a tie is an excellent choice for business casual environments or smart-casual occasions.

This collar complements almost every face shape.


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Ainsley collar

Ainsley collar


An evolution of the classic English collar, the Ainsley collar features a medium spread and internal collar stays that help maintain its shape. Its semi-structured construction provides excellent support whether worn with or without a tie.

It works particularly well in fabrics such as poplin and twill, especially on tailored shirts with reinforced stitching, maintaining a clean line beneath a jacket.

The Ainsley collar suits most face shapes, particularly oval and slightly elongated faces.



An evolution of the classic English collar, the Ainsley collar features a medium spread and internal collar stays that help maintain its shape. Its semi-structured construction provides excellent support whether worn with or without a tie.

It works particularly well in fabrics such as poplin and twill, especially on tailored shirts with reinforced stitching, maintaining a clean line beneath a jacket.

The Ainsley collar suits most face shapes, particularly oval and slightly elongated faces.


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Colletto Spread

Colletto Spread


The spread collar is characterised by the wide distance between its points (typically greater than 120°), making it ideal for fuller tie knots such as the Windsor. Widely associated with British tailoring in the early twentieth century, it is constructed with firmer interlinings that enhance both its spread and symmetry.



The spread collar is characterised by the wide distance between its points (typically greater than 120°), making it ideal for fuller tie knots such as the Windsor. Widely associated with British tailoring in the early twentieth century, it is constructed with firmer interlinings that enhance both its spread and symmetry.


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Band collar or No collar shirt

Band collar or No collar shirt


The band collar, also known as a no collar shirt, takes its inspiration from Eastern design. Technically, it has no collar points at all, instead featuring a narrow, upright band of fabric that sits neatly around the neck. This makes it one of the most contemporary and distinctive men's shirt collar types. It is particularly popular during warmer months, especially on linen shirts.



The band collar, also known as a no collar shirt, takes its inspiration from Eastern design. Technically, it has no collar points at all, instead featuring a narrow, upright band of fabric that sits neatly around the neck. This makes it one of the most contemporary and distinctive men's shirt collar types. It is particularly popular during warmer months, especially on linen shirts.


Styling tips: When and how to wear them

Scegliere tra le diverse tipologie di colli camicie da uomo non è solo una questione di gusto. Tre sono i fattori principali da considerare: forma del viso, l’occasione e stile personale.  

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Choose according to your face shape

  • Round face or short neck: a pointed collar creates the illusion of a longer, slimmer face.

  • Long or oval face: a spread collar softens facial proportions thanks to its wider opening.

  • All face shapes: the button-down collar remains the most versatile and universally flattering choice.


Choose according to the occasion

  • Black tie events and formal ceremonies: wing collar with a bow tie or formal neckwear.

  • Business meetings and formal occasions: pointed collar or spread collar.

  • Business casual outfits: button-down collar or band collar.

  • Cocktail parties and elegant dinners: club collar or button-down collar.

  • Summer casual looks: linen shirts with a band collar.


Choose according to your personal style

Style guidelines are useful, but they should never be restrictive. The right shirt collar is the one that makes you feel comfortable and confident. A well-chosen men's shirt should reflect your personality and allow you to wear it naturally. The secret is to experiment with different collar styles for different occasions while always keeping the context in mind.


Choose according to your face shape

  • Round face or short neck: a pointed collar creates the illusion of a longer, slimmer face.

  • Long or oval face: a spread collar softens facial proportions thanks to its wider opening.

  • All face shapes: the button-down collar remains the most versatile and universally flattering choice.


Choose according to the occasion

  • Black tie events and formal ceremonies: wing collar with a bow tie or formal neckwear.

  • Business meetings and formal occasions: pointed collar or spread collar.

  • Business casual outfits: button-down collar or band collar.

  • Cocktail parties and elegant dinners: club collar or button-down collar.

  • Summer casual looks: linen shirts with a band collar.


Choose according to your personal style

Style guidelines are useful, but they should never be restrictive. The right shirt collar is the one that makes you feel comfortable and confident. A well-chosen men's shirt should reflect your personality and allow you to wear it naturally. The secret is to experiment with different collar styles for different occasions while always keeping the context in mind.


Styling tips: collars and accessories

A shirt collar should work in harmony with the rest of your outfit. Here are some of the most popular styling combinations.

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How should you match your tie to your shirt collar?

The size of your tie knot should always be proportionate to the collar spread. Narrower collars suit compact knots, while wider collars work best with fuller knots such as the Windsor or Balthus. A button-down collar is best paired with a simple tie knot.


Should you wear your collar inside or outside a jumper?

A collar can be worn outside a jumper for a more structured look or tucked neatly underneath for a cleaner, more understated appearance. Both styling options work particularly well with band collars and button-down collars.


How do you wear a collar bar?

A collar bar keeps the collar points perfectly aligned and is best suited to narrow collars or a club collar. Besides its practical purpose, it adds a refined finishing touch to formal outfits.


Bow tie or tie?

A bow tie is the traditional choice with a wing collar for the most formal occasions, often paired with double cuffs and cufflinks. A necktie, on the other hand, should be selected according to the style of your shirt collar. The choice between a bow tie and a tie ultimately depends on the level of formality required by the event.


How should you match your tie to your shirt collar?

The size of your tie knot should always be proportionate to the collar spread. Narrower collars suit compact knots, while wider collars work best with fuller knots such as the Windsor or Balthus. A button-down collar is best paired with a simple tie knot.


Should you wear your collar inside or outside a jumper?

A collar can be worn outside a jumper for a more structured look or tucked neatly underneath for a cleaner, more understated appearance. Both styling options work particularly well with band collars and button-down collars.


How do you wear a collar bar?

A collar bar keeps the collar points perfectly aligned and is best suited to narrow collars or a club collar. Besides its practical purpose, it adds a refined finishing touch to formal outfits.


Bow tie or tie?

A bow tie is the traditional choice with a wing collar for the most formal occasions, often paired with double cuffs and cufflinks. A necktie, on the other hand, should be selected according to the style of your shirt collar. The choice between a bow tie and a tie ultimately depends on the level of formality required by the event.


Shop by Collection

From the pointed collar to the wing collar, from the button-down collar to the band collar, every shirt tells a different style story. Brooks Brothers offers a refined collection of men's shirts featuring all the main shirt collar types, crafted from premium fabrics with exceptional attention to detail. Discover the perfect collar for your style and dress with confidence every day.